Firsts and fiftieths

Rising early the next morning to beat the heat and the rush, we set off to the Namib-Naukluft National Park. The friendliest of gate guards greets our adventure into the spectacular desert belt that funnels the visitor along a 60-km tar road to the spectacular Sossusvlei and adjacent Deadvlei at its culmination. The last five kilometres of the journey is a treacherous off-roading thick sand track that should certainly not be attempted by the inexperienced 4×4 driver, let alone by someone without an actual 4×4! We pass two vehicles, stuck belly-down in the soft sand, as we journey along. A one-kilometre walk from the parking area, over soft sloping red dunelets, leads to the moment in which Deadvlei presents itself to the intrepid adventurer. As you crest the final uphill along the somewhat trodden sandy track, a majestic salt pan appears. The white clay expanse is interrupted intermittently with the black skeletal silhouettes of ancient petrified camelthorn trees and the shapes of other explorers wandering among them and across the swathe of white. Along the higher ridges of the surrounding dunes, we see the tiny outlines of humans who have been energetic and dauntless enough to scale the ochre sands for indescribable views from the top. At the furthest edge of the pan stands Big Daddy. It will take you an hour or two to ascend, but the sights from the top of this mammoth dune are life-changing (I swear I am not one prone to over-exaggeration!). 

This is probably my fiftieth visit to this Namibian icon, but for my young son, it is a first. He waddles across the white clay surface in his characteristic one-year-old gait, stopping only to inspect cracks and rocks along the way. Finally he stumbles upon a camelthorn in his path. Up, up, up he looks at the giant tree, centuries older than him. It is well-known in the tourism industry that we do not sit or lean against these ancients. Explaining that to a baby is almost easier than trying to convince visiting tourists of the same. After snapping a quintessential photo of Luka and his first experiences of this magical place for the memory book, we continue along in awe of the surrounding beauty. Whether it is a first or fiftieth visit, the wonder will always remain.

Ice-cold refreshments and visitors from afar

Back at Sesriem, after a quick visit to the nearby eponymous canyon, we order a cold beverage from the bar. Chilled glasses of draught appear before us as if by some desert voodoo. An ice-cold beer in the Namib is almost as iconic as Sossusvlei itself. A simple pleasure, but one that never tires. We play a guessing game as we listen to the loud group of tourists on the other side of the circular counter. “Is it Italian?” my husband whispers. “Or Russian?” I retort, our ears perking up. The truth lay somewhere in between – an Eastern European dialect that kept us guessing. The lilt and rhythm distinct, evoking the same sense of mystery that the desert had. We are just so happy to once again be surrounded by visitors from far-off lands. They were missed during the dry pandemic years. Their laughter adds to our collection that weaves together a magical memory of a weekend well-spent with family in beautiful places.  

On our final morning we prepare for an early farewell, the sun making its majestic ascent over the dunes and mountains. It feels like a silent benediction, a golden seal on the mosaic of moments that had made this trip truly special. The journey back is reflective. Sossusvlei, with its vast landscapes and intimate moments, had offered an experience that was both monumental and deeply personal. From the tales of a chef and her mother’s culinary legacy to the awe-inspiring beauty of Deadvlei. From the simple joy of an ice-cold beer in the desert to the delightful puzzle of deciphering a foreign language, every moment had found its place in the tapestry of memories. As the dunes faded in the distance, I realised that truly special trips are not just about the destinations. They are about the moments, the experiences, and the stories that stay with you long after you have left the place behind. And along our journey south to Sossusvlei, I had found a treasure trove of them.